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by Sid Davis
More than 60 U.S. volunteers ended a week of work in the Guatemalan
highlands and gathered for a celebratory banquet recently at the Porta Hotel
Antigua. The volunteers were members of Helps International, a U.S.-based non-profit
organization, and they were celebrating another successful trip into the highlands
to administer medical care to rural poor who otherwise would not have been able
to afford it. Although Helps is not as well-known as the Peace Corps, its stature
was indicated by the fact that the guest of honor was the new first lady of
Guatemala, Wendy Widman de Berger, who arrived to a standing ovation.
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by Dwight Wayne Coop
Monterrico is changing, but into what? One can almost imagine
thousands of migrating Pacific turtles waiting with bated breath offshore for
the answer. Still a fishing village but already a resort bathed in sunlight
and the white-noise lullaby of the surf, Monterrico has the distinction of being
inside a nature reserve set aside largely for ocean-going chelonians. Today
this town in a coastal plain — ironically named “Rich Mountain”
— stands at an evolutionary crossroads.
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by Dwight Wayne Coop
Eddy Ruíz Umaña’s employers at a Guatemala
City hotel wish they could clone him. He cannot clerk there 24 hours a day,
much as everyone — especially guests — would like. Sometimes he
works nights, sometimes days, sometimes graveyards. That is the hardest part
of his job; after several years, his biological clock needs an occasional rewind.
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by Dwight Wayne Coop
More people have seen ‘Gone
with the Wind’ than any
other movie; an ageless film,
it still occasionally pops up
in Guatemalan cinemas. On that basis,
Vivian Leigh (Scarlett O’Hara) is probably
the most famous person ever carried
off with the hacking wind of tuberculosis,
which took her at 54. Impoverished Central
Americans suffering from what used
to be called “consumption” might take
comfort in knowing this, since both Vivian
and Scarlett were well-bred aristocrats who
braved sickness without shame.
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by Dwight Wayne Coop
Chocolate is a nearly universal affinity,
so there was nothing odd about
Antonio Chávez liking it. But two
things set him apart: his Mexican forebears
had gobbled chocolate centuries before
Europeans even had sugar; and his freakish
devotion bred a chocolate dynasty.
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by Dwight Wayne Coop
Could a snake eat a banana? Once upon a time the keepers at
Quetzaltenango’s Minerva Zoo had little to lose by experimenting. A vegetarian
snake, had they produced one, would have been worth its weight in platinum.
Of course they failed, but their live-and-let-die policy continued: they lived
it up while the animals died. The place had become, in a word, a zoo. But one
day Lucy Guzmán crashed the party.
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text & photos by Richard Morgan Szybist
You may have been urged to think “outside the box”
to be creative on occasion. This idea can be readily applied to how one envisions
the Lake Atitlán Basin. The normal focus of the lake basin is on the
majesty of the lake itself and the inside slopes, which naturally draw one to
it. But there is fascination to be had on the basin’s outer face as well.
Los Tarrales Nature Reserve, on its south side, is a good case in point. Tarrales
are bamboo thickets, plant life here that shares space with a profuse variety
of tropical and sub-tropical flora and fauna.
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